| Since the turning begins as an interrupted
cut, the toolrest plays an especially important role. The tool is
placed firmly to the rest, steadied with the left hand, then rotated so
that it will take a slightly skewed cut, then eased into the piece at
center, where the cut will be most continuous. If it were an
end-grain piece as opposed to a face-grained, the cut would begin from an
accessible part of the outside, proceeding in. Since some pieces I
cut this way are large enough to hit the toolrest base, I have to work in
small stages until what will become the bottom is turned away enough for
me to move the base into the gap I have formed.
Even
though the tool is presented as if to guide on the bevel, it will not
actually do so until the point it is cutting becomes uninterrupted.
The tool rest is adjusted closer each time a section is reduced, and the
process of securing the tool to the base, rotating to set the bevel on the
continuous portion, then moving in the same spatial relationship out
toward the edge begins again. |
|

Ol' Blue, whatever his strengths, is not very powerful, having only a 3/4
HP motor and a belt tensioned by the motor's weight. I therefore
prefer a broad shaving to a thick one, as a broad shaving can be taken by
a long shear. To that end, I use roughing gouges on the outside, and
get right to business. You can see in this and the preceding photo
that the shavings run back and to the left, and are easily contained for
cleanup.
With the piece nearly circular, it's possible to use the bevel to guide
the gouge throughout the cut. The forged gouge is capable of making a
good surface. I look at the smooth (short) side of the shaving to see
how well I'm cutting. The shaving is almost continuous on wet wood. < Page
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