This is the original poster who asked about a schematic for his 1080 so he could repair a vertical circuit problem... The monitor was manufactured by Toshiba; the name is etched into all of the PCBs. The main board that lays flat across the bottom has what appears to be P/N PW5253. This has one IC on it - a 42-pin DIP P/N TA7644. I have tried to find a datasheet for this IC but no luck. A second small PCB stands at the back of this and has P/N PWPW5252-3. This board has all of the connectors for RGB, composite video, split video and mono audio input for the built-in speaker. There is one IC on this board, P/N TC4053. The third board is mounted vertically on the right side (facing the front of the tube). This PCB is P/N PW5252-1. There are 3 ICs on this board - P/N HD7407, P/N TC4053 and P/N AN5352. The 4th board in the system is the yoke board, which I guess we're all pretty sure is no concern with this particular problem. Also, the 3 digital chips - 7407 and 4053 - would not seem to be of concern. Research on the AN5352 IC showed it to be a character generator, which seems odd for a monitor. This unit has no capabilities to function as a terminal AFAIK. That leaves the TA7644, which I can find no detailed information on, just general data that it's a monitor controller IC. Either the vertical circuit is a part of this 42-pin chip or it's all generated discretely. ************************************************************************ Commodore 1080 (is the next line "1084" a mistake???) The 1084 is a standard 15Khz monitor which supports NTSC/PAL and looks similar to the 1084. Most of the controls are contained underneath a pull-down flap located at the front of the monitor and are as follows (left to right) Horizontal Position Vertical Hold Colour (NB. Doesn't function whilst in RGB mode) Tint (NB Doesn't function whilst in RGB mode) Brightness Contrast Volume In addition there is a horizontal sliding 3-Mode switch, which switches between Composite Video, Separated Video (chroma/luma) and RGB. Connectors 3.5mm headphone jack at the front left of the monitor A single speaker on the left hand side At the rear of the monitor, from left to right: Power Plug, Three RCA jacks for video and audio, arranged vertically in the following order: AUDIO, VIDEO, CHROMA Three position sliding "RGB Mode" switch as follows DIGITAL ANALOG | | __|__ | | | | POS. NEG. | | | | 9-pin D connector for RGB Vertical height screw which is set into the back - generally used for resizing the screen when switching between PAL/NTSC because the monitor does not automatically adjust the screensize --==Diagram of 9-pin D Connector Cabling==-- .---------------------. | .----------------. | .-------------------. | | | | | | | | o o o | o o | | | | | | | Monitor end | | | | o | o | o o | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | `------------. | | | | `------------. | | | | `------------. | | | | `-. | | | | | | | | | | `----|---+---. | | | | , | | | | | | .- | | | | | | | | | | | | | o o o o | o | o o o o o o o | | | | Computer end o o o o o o o o o o o | | | | | | | | | `---+---+--------------------' Connector Pinouts Pin Number Function 1 Video Ground 2 Video Ground 3 RED 4 GREEN 5 BLUE 6 - 7 Composite Sync 8 - 9 - As a side note, the 1080 doesn't have the Commodore logo, just the original "Amiga" logo and checkmark Thanks to Doug Spence ****************************************************************************** http://www.textfiles.com/computers/1080mods Amiga 1080 Monitor Modifications A number of Amiga 1080 monitors were built by Toshiba. The people at Toshiba could have done a better job in a couple of respects: First, they did a poor job of extracting vertical sync pulses from the video signal that comes from the Amiga. This produces an error in the interlacing when the Amiga is used in 320x400 or 640x400 display modes. When you look closely at the screen you see alternating line spacings. It also gives characters a ragged look. The modification described in the dPaintII file reduces the interlace error by a factor of about 5. While interlaced video isn't the nicest thing to read characters on, it's neat to be able to put nearly all of a typewritten page on the screen. Most of the Amiga outlets handle a neat thing called Jitter-Rid, or some such thing. It is a thick piece of smoked plastic that goes on your 1080 monitor. It enhances the contrast and attenuates the light from the screen to keep your brain from rattling too badly from the flicker. Also, dark characters on a light background seem to work best for me, anyway. The second problem is a thing called crossover distortion. They did a dumb thing that distorts the audio, even at very low volume levels. The Amiga deserves better sound. Unfortunately, this mod takes 2 diodes and a resistor, but it essentially eliminates the crossover distortion. If you aren't afraid of working on the average modern TV set, the 1080 shouldn't prove to be much of a problem. Looking from the back, there are four screws, one at each corner. You need a long Philips screwdriver for those. There is a bottom plate that that also needs to come off. Finally, there is a screw just above the RGB input connector. Now, if you place the monitor face down on a soft towel, you can, with a little judicious prying and tugging, lift the rear part of the case off. Watch out for the speaker lead. You will have to unplug the connector before the back can come clear off. You will need to have something to support the neck of the CRT. A 1x4 about 3-4 inches long worked pretty well. The whole assembly is pretty limber, so use reasonable caution. The main board on the bottom can be slid back along with all of the front-panel knobs. This permits access to the controls - you might as well squirt some contact cleaner in there while you are at it. If you are looking at the bottom, with the face of the CRT on your right, you will see a large IC that is the guts of the whole thing right in the middle of the board. C304 is visible above and to the left of the centerline of that humongous IC. The board that contains the audio output amplifier is on the left side of the 1080 if you are facing the screen. Looking at the underside of the board, the components you are looking for to do the audio mod are on the upper left corner. Fortunately, the P.C. boards have component numbers screened on them, so it isn't too hard to find the parts. I did the audio mod by lifting the collector lead of Q605 out of the hole and wiring directly to it. In retrospect, it probably would have been easier if I had just soldered an insulated wire to it, brought the wire through the hole and done all of the wiring on the backside of the board. If you are concerned about vibration messing up the "air-wired" connections, a shot of hot glue or some similar measure should put your mind at rest. The diodes are 1N914s from Radio Shack, but most any small-signal silicon diode should do.