G-CHASSIS CASSETTE CARRIAGE RE-INSTALLATION and fixes. 

Note: gear train layouts and other info found in AG-560 manual.

Initial setup: Carriage (removed from deck) should be in the full eject
position. Rotate deck mechanics beyond full eject (counter-clockwise as seen
from bottom of deck) to end of travel to check gear alignment. Link gear dot
(dimple on gear edge near small bottom teeth, viewed from top of deck)
should now be at 3:30 position. Dot on spiral pinch tower will be at 4:00.
Dimple (dot, not hole) on white gear in front of tower will be at 4:30
position. (Note: some white gears have only one dimple and no hole.) Hole in
chassis base metal (near end of P5 loading arm) will almost line up with
hole in white plastic gear underneath (actually sits at edge of hole nearest
front of VCR). Mode switch indicator dot will line up with arrow on it's
case (roughly at 2:30 position). Reminder: this is max beyond full eject
position.

Note: if gears have slipped or are mistimed for any reason, you need to
remove the tower and check or retime the lower gears, then reinstall the
tower as follows: run the capstan to the FR STOP mode (first click-stop for
some machines and two click-stops for others). At that point, the dimple
(not the hole) on the pinch speed down gear (white gear in front of tower)
will be at 11:30 position (and facing the arrow on the tower if in place),
and the mode switch should be aligned so that it's notch is facing down
(6:00 position). Now install the tower so the dot on the tower lines up with
the mode switch notch, and the arrow on the tower lines up with the dimple
(not hole) on the pinch speed down gear. You will not be able to reinstall
the plastic arm (that drives the P5 arm) unless you run the gears back
toward eject far enough to let that plastic arm drop into place on the
tower. Make sure it is lined up properly with the P5 arm before you allow it
to drop in place. If correct, the arm (two in some machines) will move
forward (two will move together) through two steps to FR STOP... the arm(s)
will then be fully forward. The P5 arm notch will be under the pinch roller
and allow the tab in the pinch assembly to lock into place in the notch.

To re-install carriage: From full eject position, rotate deck mechanics one
clockwise turn of the link gear so that the dot on the gear edge is at the
3:30 to 4:00 position. The larger gear tooth just above it will contact the
carriage track gear between the second and third tooth on the rack... but
you will not be able to see it! The only way to make sure it seats correctly
is to install a dummy cassette and rotate the mechanism to see if it loads
correctly. So, install the carriage (held at full eject position) and allow
the slider to drop into place over the link gear... it helps to rotate the
capstan slightly until the track gear engages the link gear. Don't install
the carriage mounting screws yet, but try the dummy cassette (you must hold
the carriage down so it's doesn't move and jump timing) and see if it will
load the "tape" all the way down without binding. If so, trip the solenoid
release manually and eject the cassette, then install the screws in the
carriage. If the deck uses four screws, the front ones are hidden by the
carriage in the full eject position. You must partially "load" the deck
without a tape in it to get to those screws.

Note: when rotating the capstan clockwise (seen from the bottom) by hand, at
the first "solenoid stop", the cassette should be down and fully seated, and
the tape will be pulled slightly out of the cassette because thread assist
arm(s) have (both) moved slightly forward. (At full eject, they are both
fully retracted behind the cassette tape.) The next "stop" is what I call FR
STOP, although some decks will not FF and REW in this position with rotation
of the capstan motor, and stop brakes are still on. Note that in this
position, the holes in the pinch assembly spiral tower base and the mode
switch will line up (facing each other), and the P5 loading arm will be
fully extended (behind the pinch roller) so it will lock into the pinch
assembly when the roller is lowered. One more "stop" will release the stop
brakes (some machines). Further rotation of the capstan will advance the
loading arms (two stops) and full loading will lower the pinch roller and it
will contact the tape. Further rotation beyond that point (another "stop")
will hit a mechanical end... normally the machine never goes that far.

CARRIAGE TIMING PROBLEMS... If either or both of the plastic tabs that hold
the cassette carriage slider gear against the link gear are broken, it
causes the carriage slider to jump over the link gear teeth and you end up
with a damaged link gear and/or timing problems: tries to load w/out a tape,
fails to drop tape all the way down (and consequent eject), horrible
grinding noises, shutdown, etc. One "fix" for the plastic parts is to melt a
loop of solid wire into the plastic with a hot soldering iron, and thus make
another "tab". Another way is to cut the tab flush, drill a small hole in it
and install a small screw to hold the slider gear plate in place. The wire
melt is faster and works well. If the link gear and slider gear have been
allowed to grind very long, the link gear will be damaged (examine the
larger teeth for wear) and will have to be replaced.

The original cause of many of the problems with the G chassis is the
carriage slide switch and the mode switch. These should be replaced or at
least cleaned (and protected with silicone lube) when the machine comes in
for service, especially if there are mechanical problems with the deck.
Clean and lube the metal pinch roller elevator shaft and the P5 arm to
repair/prevent sticking problems (original grease gets like honey).

**********************************************************************